Boucheron
Emerald, Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch/Pendant 寶詩龍 祖母綠 配 寶石 及 鑽石 胸針 或 吊墜
Live auction begins on:
May 12, 12:00 PM GMT
Estimate
65,000 - 95,000 CHF
Bid
45,000 CHF
Lot Details
Description
Designed as a giardinetto, the pear-shaped rose-cut emerald urn issuing a delicate floral and foliate spray of old mine and single-cut diamonds, one of yellow tint, and vari-cut rubies, emeralds and sapphires, suspended from a diamond-set ribbon bow surmount, the whole suspending three elongated diamond briolette drops, signed F. Boucheron Paris, French assay mark for gold; circa 1900.
Please note that the diamonds of yellow tint have not been tested for natural colour origin.
For jewels in similar taste see:
“The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910”, various contributors, London, 1990, page 145, no 74, a floral bracelet set with calibré-cut gems, by Boucheron, designed by Auguste Bugniot, 1898.
Duncan, Alistair, “The Paris Salons 1895-1914”, Suffolk, 1994, page 84 for multi-gem-set floral jewels by Boucheron dated 1901.
This jewel is a superb example of Boucheron’s exquisite craftsmanship. Each gem is precision-cut and beautifully matched and the pendant is impeccably weighted. The elongated diamond briolettes are not only an unusual design feature but an opulent addition to this masterpiece in miniature.
Boucheron relied on a network of specialised craftsmen rather than a single, centralised workshop. Auguste Bugniot and Theophile Picot were two such jewellers who were employed.
Auguste Bugnoit, engaged by Boucheron from around 1890, appears to have focused on naturalistic forms and his compositions frequently returned to floral motifs. His use of calibré-cut gemstones is especially noteworthy. This specific technique required stones to be cut and faceted by hand to precise, custom dimensions to fit seamlessly within complex, often curved settings such as petals and buds.
Théophile Picot, by contrast, may be characterised as operating at the intersection of jewellery and sculpture, creating “little marvels of extraordinary precision and finish” (Gilles Néret). His work is distinguished by an acute attention to microscopic modelling and three-dimensional form.