A French Empire gold, enamel, and diamond necklace watch, circa 1812-1814, attributed to Nitot, with the monogram of Empress Marie-Louise

Probably Marie-Louise d'Autriche, French Empress (1791-1847) ;

Probably given by Marie-Louise to Jeanne Charlotte de Lucay (1769-1845), lady-in-waiting to Marie-Louise of Austria from 1810 to 1814 ;

By descent in the family ;

Purchased from the family by the current owner.

P.-J. Chalençon, Napoléon, La Collection, Paris, 2019, p. 144

La collection Pierre-Jean Chalençon - Napoléon : L’empereur sous la verrière du Grand Palais, Paris, 2018, catalogue for the 30th Biennale Paris, 8-16 september 2018, ill. p. 66-67

Related literature:

P.-J. Chalençon, B. Topping and R. Hull Etling, Napoléon: An Intimate Portrait, Floride, 2005, exhibition catalogue, 2005-2011, p. 51

C. Joannis, Bijoux des deux Empires, mode et sentiments, 1804-1870, Paris, 2004, exhibition catalogue, Musée national de Malmaison, 20 octobre 2004 - 28 février 2005, ill. p. 118

B. Chevallier and Dr. C. Seguin, La Mesure du temps dans les collections du musée de Malmaison, Paris, 1991, Exhibition Catalogue, Musée national de Malmaison, 29 May 1991 - 15 Septembre 1991, n°44

F. Masson, L’impératrice Marie-Louise, Paris, 1902

A. Maze-Sencier, Les fournisseurs de Napoléon Ier et des deux impératrices, Paris, 1893

La collection Pierre-Jean Chalençon - Napoléon : L’empereur sous la verrière du Grand Palais, 30th Biennale Paris, Grand Palais, 8-16 September 2018

The Masson Collection (housed at the Bibliothèque Thiers) preserves an inventory listing the objects contained in the case of “ Sa Majesté l’Impératrice & Reine” from 1810 to 1815. Marie-Louise commissions numerous neck watches from various suppliers: Etienne Mugnier, Abraham-Louis Breguet, Jean-André Lepaute, and Marie-Etienne Nitot. Her first purchase from Nitot, dated April 17, 1811, consists of a “montre de col, émaillée, enrichie de perles ” priced at 230 francs. Numerous orders follow, such as one from the Grand Chamberlain dated 1811 (September 4, 1811): “vingt-six petites montres de col divers, en or émaillé, avec entourages, chiffres, emblèmes superbes et accompagnées de leurs chaînes et clefs.” According to the archives, watches of this type are priced based on the quality of their adornments, enriched with pearls or brilliants, ranging from 250 to 600 francs each.

Her orders intensify thereafter, particularly in 1814, when the Empress acquires 12 neck watches at prices ranging from 496 to 983 francs, depending on the level of ornamentation (pearls, diamonds, enamel color, and her monogram). This significant number of orders is attributed to the Empress’s habit of gifting these small precious objects to her ladies-in-waiting, such as the example preserved at the Château de Fontainebleau, presented to Mademoiselle Soufflot, daughter of a chambermaid to the King of Rome. Numerous small enameled neck or pocket watches bearing the Empress’s monogram are held in public collections or have appeared at auction. They are often adorned with fine pearls on a blue enamel background and feature similar designs: bees, laurel garlands, small flowers, and stars. The Empress’s monogram typically appears in uppercase or block letters. The use of an elegant, cursive English script likely indicates personal ownership by the Empress. The presence of numerous diamonds, both in the monogram and the overall watch design, also suggests an order placed by the Empress for her own use or a gift received, possibly from the Emperor himself. Known neck watches lack this level of opulence.